WWII monument on Peleliu. Photo: Simon Sellars.

Originally published in Dynasty, China Airlines’ inflight magazine, August 2009.

Deep in the North Pacific ocean, 800km east of the Philippines and over 3000km south of Tokyo, lies the Republic of Palau. You may know it from the Survivor TV show, which filmed two series here, making full use of the archipelago’s beaches, lagoons, reefs and rock islands to put its contestants through survivalist hell. But secretly, you know those people had a great time, because Palau is possibly Micronesia’s most attractive destination – local myth even suggests it’s the ‘beginning of everything’. Certainly, it’s one of the world’s most spectacular diving and snorkelling spots, with coral reefs, war wrecks, hidden caves and tunnels, blue holes and numerous vertical drop-offs to explore. There’s also a wonderful array of marine life: coral, fish, rare sea critters, giant clams and a phantasmagorical lake populated by millions of softly pulsating, stingless jellyfish.

Palau also has the region’s richest plant and animal life: exotic birds and crocodiles in the mangrove swamps, striking flora in backyards. Plus the local people are friendly, and they love a good acronym. You’ll see these coded missives everywhere on signs, billboards and posters, like ‘W.A.V.E. – Welcome All Visitors Enthusiastically’ or ‘Know Your A.B.C. for Life! Abstinence. Be Faithful. Condomize’. You might find yourself playing this game, too. P.A.L.A.U., for example – could it be ‘Palau’s Archipelago: Lovely And Unique’, for the Republic is very diverse. It includes the capital Koror, a polyglot place with unusual culinary delights, like, er, fruit-bat pie. Southwest, the magical Rock Islands consist of a series of mushroom-shaped limestone islands dramatically undercut by erosion. Babeldaob, the second-largest island in Micronesia, derives its power from incredible waterfalls, traditional architecture and strange, alluring monoliths. Peleliu, once host to one of WWII’s worst conflicts, is now quiet and tranquil, while tiny Angaur, the coral atolls of Kayangel and Ngeruangel and the outlying South-West Islands (some 595km southwest from Koror) offer more remote pleasures.

Assuming that, like most visitors, you’ll only have limited time to island hop, Kayangel, Ngeruangel and the South-West Islands will be well out of reach. But there’s no excuse for not visiting the rest. Begin your stay in the capital, Koror State, which comprises Koror, Malakal and Arakabesang islands, all connected by causeways and forming Palau’s economic centre and cultural hub, home to two-thirds of the population. Here, histories mingle and cultures are borrowed, with many people coming from outlying villages to look for work, joining a steady stream of workers from the Philippines and elsewhere. Downtown Koror is a heady and vibrant place (with unbelievable traffic in peak period), but it’s not the definitive Palau experience … unless you’re after food. Indeed, Koror might well have Micronesia’s best cuisine. Mangrove crabs and shellfish are common menu items, as is the aforementioned fruit-bat pie, which tastes like chicken.

While Koror is not especially picturesque, the Rock Islands certainly are: many of the photos associated with Palau are taken here. The locals know these knobs of limestones, covered with jungle growth and rounded by the wind, as Chalbacheb. There are over 200 of them, a beautiful sight, spread out over a 32km expanse of water. Their bases have been stripped away by erosion, nibbling fish and tiny, scraping chitons, resulting in their surreal, trademark mushroom shapes. The islands are teeming with bird life and the waters around them are home to abundant varieties of marine creatures. Remarkably, there’s also four times as many coral species than in the Caribbean. Another outstanding feature is the 80 marine salt lakes, in varying colours due to algae infestation, each hosting a unique ecosystem. Jellyfish Lake is the best known, and snorkelling here should be number one on your list of priorities. The lake is filled with millions of transparent jellyfish, but don’t worry – they’ve lost their sting. Floating among these flimsy, pink creatures – which expand and contract like so many pulsating brains – is like exploring the atmosphere of an alien world: inspiring, uncanny and spiritual all at once. Don’t touch the jellyfish – they are really fragile – and don’t eat them. Certain tourists have been known to steal them away in bags to use in meals, but remember, these creatures have no natural predators, which is why they’re stingless, so don’t encourage them to develop their weaponry all over again. Other Rock Islands worth visiting include Carp and Neco, calm places with white-sand beaches that are perfect for snorkelling. The Milky Way cove is also popular – it’s actually white, limestone-sand emulsion, supposed to be great for the skin. For experienced divers, the Blue Corner is unmissable, with its bedazzling array of fish and abundant hard and soft corals. Novices should try the German Channel and Turtle Cove. The Ngemelis Wall, also known as the Big Drop-off, is reckoned to be the greatest wall dive in the world, dropping 300m from knee-deep water. There are also intriguing WWII wrecks dotted around the islands, including a half-submerged Japanese Zero fighter. The islands are uninhabited, meaning no hotels, but the camping is atmospheric and tremendous.

Babeldaob (or Babelthaup), joined to Koror by bridge, is huge – around three-quarters the size of Guam – but it’s sparsely populated, as most young people head to Koror for work. Ancient stone footpaths connect the villages, most of the roads are dirt (you’ll need to hire a 4WD), with no traffic lights, and the resorts of Koror may as well be a galaxy away. It’s like travelling back in time to Palau as it was in days gone by. Babeldaob is a mysterious place: at Ngarchelong in the north, there are enigmatic monoliths whose origin and purpose is unknown (save for various god theories). Found in an open field, these rows of four-foot-high basalt markers are known as Badrulchau. Babeldaob’s east coast has beautiful stretches of sandy beach, while the west coast’s shoreline is littered with mangroves and two very lovely waterfalls. The Ngatpang waterfall provides the easiest access, while Ngardmau is Micronesia’s tallest. A dip in the pools at the base of either is essential.

Peleliu, accessible by state boat from Koror, imparts a peaceful, easy feeling. There’s not much to do here, and often it will seem like you’re the only person around. Walking and exploring the jungle and war relics is an awesome, often humbling experience. In 1944 Peleliu was torn apart by one of WWII’s bloodiest battles: the island is just 13 sq km, but 15,000 men were killed here in two months and the forests and jungle were completely destroyed. Today, the greenery has regenerated, making for an eerie sensation should you chance upon a rusted pillbox or burnt-out tank hidden away. Even then, the experience is leavened by the whistles and songs of tropical birds thriving in the regenerated vines and leafy foliage, a cornucopia that has mostly healed the hideous battle scars of old. For divers, the Peleliu Wall is another fine wall dive, beginning in 3m of water but dropping an incredible 300m. White Beach, Bloody Beach and Honeymoon Beach are great for snorkelling. Finally, if time permits, visit serene Angaur, 11 kilometres southwest of Peleliu, where there’s also good diving.