‘Treading Lightly on the ‘Galapagos of Japan’ by Simon Sellars, published in Code Green, Lonely Planet Publications, May 2006.

Ecotourism may be the world’s fastest growing travel trend but you’d be forgiven for thinking it never caught on in Japan. Relentless urbanisation has destroyed much of the country’s natural beauty; the government insists on hunting whales, despite international outrage; and almost everything is packaged in plastic, even apples. But don’t give up your hopes of having a green and clean time; Iriomote island, in the Okinawa group, is among Japan’s last true wilderness areas. Ninety per cent of Iriomote is undeveloped, covered in dense jungle and mangroves, and a third of the island has been designated a national park. Somewhere in among this subtropical wonderland is the famous Iriomote yamaneko, or wildcat, an endangered species numbering around 100. The yamaneko was discovered fairly recently, just as tourism was making an impact on Iriomote, and conservationists were alarmed that an increasing amount of visitors would further decimate the wildcat population (360,000 visitors came to Iriomote last year, staggering considering the island’s population is only 2000).

Residents aren’t entirely opposed to tourism but they are concerned with Iriomote’s fragile ecosystem, especially considering a four-storey resort hotel has just opened on Todomari Beach (a native habitat for the yamaneko), despite years of lobbying against it. That’s why the Iriomote Ecotourism Association was formed, with a membership of farmers, sea-kayaking guides, scientists, tour operators, government officials and National Park representatives, all focused on helping visitors to care for the land.

One of Iriomote’s most popular ecotours involves a kayak trip up the Pinai river, culminating in a jungle trek to the majestic, 55-metre Pinaisara falls (Okinawa’s highest). Along the way, guides dispense knowledge about mangrove ecology and the crustaceans, shellfish and other marine life that inhabit the nooks and crannies, as well as advice on the significance of Iriomote’s seasons (it’s considered an imposition for locals to meet visitors during the rice-planting season, for example). Other tours might offer camping for a night or two (participants are taught to recognise the negative aspects of their impact on the environment, and are encouraged to take all waste with them), coral-reef observations, or the learning of local customs including food preparation.

As you stare at the Pinaisara falls, humid with jungle sweat, you might just forget for a moment that you’re on Japanese soil. But how long before more hotels appear on the horizon?

RESPONSIBLE TOURISM CRITERIA
Environment: Now, more than ever before, Iriomote is under threat from developers, with environmentalists warning of pollution and side effects from the Todomari beach hotel; already, the sea turtles that habitually laid eggs on the beach have not returned since the hotel was opened. Iriomote’s ecotours provide a different perspective on mass tourism, proving that it’s possible to enjoy the sights without leaving a negative impact.

Social: Iriomote’s ecotours also counteract the fearsome effects of the ‘nature spirits’ of traditional lore, charged with punishing those who tamper with the land.

Economic: Ecotours sustain the local economy, providing jobs for residents in ways that don’t compromise traditional beliefs or environmental goals.

GETTING THERE
• Iriomote is 2000km from Tokyo. There’s no airport so travellers need to fly to Ishigaki island from Okinawa or Tokyo, then take a ferry (approx. 40mins) to Iriomote.
• Mayagusuku Eco Adventures offers a variety of tours covering most of the activities mentioned here. Prices start at 7500 yen per person for a four-hour boat trip up to 35000 yen per person for a two-night camping tour. Book tours on +81 980 85 6288; some English is spoken. Iriomote has many ryokan and minshuku options – see Lonely Planet’s Japan guide for further details.

WHEN TO GO
Okinawa is in a subtropical climate zone, with balmy weather all throughout the year. Summer, naturally, sees the humidity rise.

FURTHER INFO
• Okinawa Ecotour Information (www.ocvb.or.jp/Multi_Search_List/Multi_Contents_Detail/esel/en/0000000901/contents.html)
• Mayagusuku Eco Adventures (www.mayagusukutour.com; Japanese only)